Walking the Milford Track, the 'world's finest walk'

Starting the walk at Glade Wharf

Due to its popularity, a hike on the Milford Track must be booked a few months in advance. A cancellation however allowed me to secure a place with only three weeks to go. Virgin Australia was also offering cheap fares flying from Brisbane to Queenstown. And so, on 18 November 2013, and after two years of wanting to walk this 'finest walk in the world', I disembarked from the first boat to arrive at the track head and begin the 53.5km walk. I was starting this walk with about 20 other enthusiastic hikers from all over the world.

Quintin MacKinnon was the first European to walk the Milford Track in 1869. He was looking for a route from Lake Te Anau to Milford Sound, which was already a popular tourist destination. He possibly used a row boat to cross the lake, and practically took the same route as we do today. In the 45 minutes ride to Glade Wharf, the track head, Jim the skipper and Angus the guide explained to me the interesting landmarks such as the caves in Lee Island, used by Maoris as a shelter. We also crossed a rocky outcrop on which was erected a cross, a memorial to MacKinnon.

We were always not far from the Clinton River

Day One: Glade Wharf to Clinton Hut (5km)
The weather on the first day was promising: clear sky with not a speck of cloud, and temperatures in the mid 20 degrees. Today's walk was over a short five km distance, but almost immediately, we crossed the Clinton River, in which a swim was irresistible. I got to a slow walking pace with Joab who had travelled from Israel, and we jumped into the water under the bridge, only to find it icy cold. But we were certainly refreshed.

By 3pm, I had arrived at the hut. I ate fried rice I had bought at the Chinese takeaway in Te Anau. The second group of walkers trudged in. Ross was the hut warden and he happily took us on a nature walk where he displayed his amazing knowledge of the local flora and fauna.

The Department of Conservation huts for independent walkers contain 40 bunk beds and cooking stoves and gas as well as water pumped from the rivers or nearby lakes. There are flushing toilets and in some huts washrooms to be used if you dare brave the icy water. The washbasins even have mirrors above them! Hikers need carry only a sleeping bag as well as equipment to cook in. Due to abundance of water close to the tracks, a liter of drinking water is all you need to carry in your pack.

The first day was hugely satisfying. We had begun to see ice-covered mountains, but in the coming days, we would enjoy even grander views.

Day Two: Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut (16.5km)

It was again a sunny day, temperatures up to 25 degrees. It was actually hot. With food for the next four days (I was going on to walk the Routeburn Track), my pack weighed nearly 10 Kg and I could feel its weight.

Today's highlight was crossing the Prairie, an open valley between magnificent ranges with tall waterfalls. I swam in a pool under one of these falls. Signs in some sections warned walkers not to stop for fear of avalanches.

The hut was located next to the Mintaro Lake, fed by waters from melting ice. The beach was a perfect setting for a picnic, but one needed to have tough skin to ignore the sand flies which abound in the Fiordland.

Today, we saw the DOC's helicopters put to work. It was used to ferry and instal a new bridge on the track. Marianne, the hut warden, arrived that afternoon by helicopter. What a life!

We were now getting to know our fellow hikers. Our company was rather cosmopolitan: American, Israeli, Australian, Taiwanese, French and British in order of numbers. We were a friendly lot.

Day 3: Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut

Today was the highlight of the four-day walk. We crossed the MacKinnon Pass. It was a tiring 2 1/2 hour ascent to see amazing mountain scenery and postcard views. Joab and I were at the rear as both his knees were injured. But the slow pace allowed me to enjoy the amazing views.

At the McKinnon memorial, we made a chocolate drink and chatted with the guided walkers. They were a friendly lot. The McKinnon Shelter provided a respite from the cold winds. We cooked lunch here. There were views of snow covered mountains on all the windows. This must be the kitchen with the best views.

Just before reaching our destination, a few of us took a short detour to see the highest falls in New Zealand, at 580m.

I was the last hiker to walk into the hut. It was nearly 9pm.

Day 4: Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point

The final day was a short walk to where we were picked up by a boat to Milford Sound.

The Milford Track is one of the greatest walking experience. (I've done long distance walks through temperate and tropical forests in Australia and Borneo.) The views of majestic mountains, the tall waterfalls and cascades (highest waterfall in New Zealand at 580m), and the peaceful and pretty rivers, the comaradie of strangers who became friends, and comfort of the well maintained huts and shelters, were reasons to rate this experience hightly. I couldn't say if this was the finest walk in the world, but it must be close.

If you're doing it - and you just must - try to walk a slow pace. Even though I'm a fast walker, I slowed down to enjoy what all my senses were absorbing - the sights and sounds mostly. I even plunged into icy cold water (but for just one second each time) and cleaned myself in cold water in washrooms in the huts.

This was a great time to be taking pictures so as to remember the adventure. But some moments could only be captured in memories. I had lots of fond memories.

A tale of three cities: impressions from our July 2013 travel

Comparing Macau with HK, I can't help but marvel at the different quality of tourism infrastructure despite it being the gambling mecca of the world. The ferry terminal in Macau is old and may appear even chaot...ic, compared to the modern and comfortable facilities in HK International Airport. To reach Macau, we took the ferry straight from the airport. (It's not well known that you can ride a ferry to Macau from the HK International Airport without exiting HK immigration. Your luggage is even checked through to Macau.) 

But Macau's 'software' is superior. As an example, the signs at the queuing lanes make it very clear that senior citizens (and locals) are given priority. Officials are polite. A few cab drivers seem grumpy, but most others are helpful and chatty like those in any capital cities.

As for Hong Kong ...

The sun seems to continue to rise on HK.

Still, you wonder if somewhere, the sun is not setting. To understand what's happening, let's take hospitality. Traveling now with the elderly reveals a rare, and necessary, insight into what will happen when you want this city state to slow down. You can get shouted at when you don't know the rules at the border. Space at Immigration doesn't allow more than one traveller to pass through formalities, so you can't help the infirm through. Traveling escalators are usually too fast (except at the Koshan Theatre, which puts up Cantonese opera performances attracting mostly elderly patrons) and hurrying commuters mutter impatiently under their breath when you block their path. 

Have you wondered if Hongkongers are getting poorer? They groan about the rich Chinese that flood this small city, snapping up expensive branded goods, and causing rents and property prices to skyrocket. Miu, my HK friend, cannot work because he's got a brain tumour, and his wife works part time so she can care for him. They rent a small apartment in Kowloon, and keep the windows shut because an air conditional in another block blows foul air trying at their unit. And they join a long queue (more than 200,000) to be eligible to buy a government-subsidised apartment. I hope they are successful. Talking about we being in a lucky country!

And, Kuala Lumpur?

We continue to moan about corruption and cronyism. I was reminded about how Malaysians get rich. 

Malaysians are used to monopolies. Traditional wisdom used to be that essential services, such as supplying electricity and water, and health care, had to be provided by government. Since Maggie (the late Margaret Thatcher, former Prime Minister of GB) it's no longer happening. These services are now useful tools to enrich segments of society or even individuals. All in the name of privatisation and competition to reduce prices, or to introduce efficiency.

We got used to seeing empty taxis leaving KLIA (the airport) because only KLIA limos belonging to some crony companies were allowed to ferry arriving passengers. So, city taxis that come to the airport had to return empty. Later, these taxis were given this right too, so we're at last

getting it right when it comes to saving the earth.

To leave Kuala Lumpur, we engaged the services of Mr Azman, who uses the Internet and a mobile phone to run his taxi business. We needed an MPV (5 large luggage pieces and a few shopping bags), but the taxi and limo companies wanted to charge twice the fare of a normal taxi. So, Azman's price of RM120 (A$40) for the 40 minute journey, all in, was reasonable. Think about it: why should one pay double for one vehicle with one driver? I think only Azman has got the numbers right.