Sunday, April 26, 2015

Italian Vacation

1. Rome and its Glorious Past

Rome, I think, is mostly about the past - its monuments, magnificent structures and art. But the city, in its wisdom, has managed to preserved things that matter, while other cities cast their past away seeking development.

Rome is quite nice. But we're in its old district.

2. TUSCANY: Great Countryside, Pinocchio & Cinqueterre

The train trip from Rome to Florence on April 7 was a rush: we arrive at Roma Termini with 30 minutes to spare, and we didn't know that having a booking number was sufficient.

Florence seems great for shopping for leather. Florentine people know what shoppers want.

Florence is also the home of Pinocchio. Interestingly, the author, a Florentino, was a satirist, and behind the children's tale is a dark side for human adults to learn about. For more, read the caption on the image of the marionette.

After two days of walking, shopping and ogling at cathedrals, we packed our bags and took the train to Cinque Terre.

Afternoon on arriving Monterosso was a lazy affair: watching the world go by while relaxing on a bench near our apartment. The sea was only a stone throw away. Lunch was spaghetti served with mussel and clam; we paid tourist prices of course - close to €20 per head, with charges for bread, water and Cappuccino on top of the €14 for spaghetti.

This was the place to burn off calories from eating too much good food. Only the track from Monterosso to Vernezza was open, so the next day, Tuck Onn and I started out before 10am to walk this 2-hour section of Cinque Terre.

The coastal scenery was gorgeous; no wonder in summer, Cinqueterra and its trains are always packed with tourists. We stayed here for four days.

In Pisa, I don't know why my mood turned somber. It could be because Galileo conducted his experiment up in the famous tower. How natural it must be for him to try out his theories here. I sat on the steps outside the duomo and was amused by the antics of tourists trying to hold up the tower on their photography.

Our last days in Tuscany were: a memorable guided hike from Soviere back to Monterosso, tasting Cinqueterre's famous white wines (I enjoyed the bouquet of the Capellini, of which there are two types) and a ferry journey to see the five hamlets. Cinqueterre was the highlight of our Tuscan vacation.

3. Italy's Eternal City

 We last visited Venice in autumn 1989. Spring as well is not busy, temperatures mild, and walking around a delight.

We made a beeline for Rialto Bridge. The views from on top this icon is in my view the best in Venice. Instantly, I'm happy. And nostalgic. 26 years ago, we stayed in Locunda Sturion, a boutique hotel overlooking Rialto on the Grand Canal. Then, we were serenaded each night with Italian ballads sung enthusiastically by gondoliers. But we didn't sit on one of the gondolas.

This time, we stayed in the Jewish Ghetto, thirty minutes from the tourist hubbub of activity. We paid €100 to sit on the decorated boat. Our gondolier was a young man, hardly the singer you would love to listen to. But we enjoyed our ride.

Taverna Al Remer is a cosy pub restaurant near Rialto Bridge, and it faces the Grand Canal (no views), but it's not easy to find. The food was delicious. We came here twice, and both times ordered the Spritz cocktail, a Venetian creation, it seems.

Our second day was designed to be one to get lost in Venice. As some in our group still didn't get used to the idea, we got lost in separate ways. Sim and I took ages to reach St Mark's Square. We met really nice locals whom we accosted to ask the way. An elderly lady practised her English on us, but it was a pity both sides were in a hurry.

So, what can I offer you about Venice?

a. As all references and guidebooks tell you, get lost. But, you must take time to do so. Never be in a hurry. In the process, speak with locals; many will say they don't speak English, but you meet very nice people.

b. Venice is one place one can ponder over what the whole purpose of travel is about. I sum it simply: to feel a place, not see it; to live it, not pass it; and, not to want to do something, but to collect in your memory bank the snapshot of time that you want to keep of a place forever.

c. Read a. again. No, really, get on the canals, ride the water buses, or taxis, or even the gondolas if you feel extravagant (which in Venice, you must), and get romantic. Watch the sunset, sip wine wine, eat crepe with ice cream.

d. Get to know a little of Venice's history and culture, even if only to find out that Marco Polo hailed from here.

e. Unless you come in summer (for those who love crowds), spend a little shopping money. In off season, shop assistants try very hard to get your business. They can be very nice.

4. Lombardy: Europe's Beautiful Lake and Milan

Lake Como is Italy's third largest lake with an area of 146 sq.km. and over 400m deep.

We rented an apartment in Bellagio, a town across the lake from Varenna, where the trains from Milan discharge holiday makers who then walk five minutes to the ferry terminal for the 15 minute ride across the placid waters.

The only thing to do in Bellagio is to eat, drink and sleep. Unless ...

You rely on taxi service in Bellagio. There're only a few drivers so one needs to reserve the service. Otherwise, you wait...and wait, like we did.

A better way to enjoy Bellagio is, perhaps, to stay by the lake shore and use the ferries. Even better is to hire a car. And, how many days should one stay at Lake Como? Bellagio appears to be a very popular base for visits around the area. For us, two days gave us time to only visit the famous Melzi garden in Bellagio and to shop. To experience Lake Como nicely, I'd love to stay four or five days. There're nice towns to visit using the regular ferries. The Lombardy region has only a few white wines and maybe several more reds. A longer visit will certainly refresh.

There seems to be some good restaurants in Bellagio. I was impatient for dinner time. I reserved six places at Ittiturismo Pescaturismo Mella in San Giovanni. Here we are, at 7pm, admiring the views from San Giovanni, waiting for the restaurant to open its doors. The degustation menu better be good.

Our dinner that evening turned out to be a surprise. We had a whole trout freshly caught in the lake. It was so huge that we couldn't finish it. It was delisioso, as Italians say.

On the penultimate day of our Italian Vacation, we left by the 8.30am ferry and waited almost two hours in Varenna. It's another quaint city, nice to explore in.

Milan was our overnight stop and from here we said goodbye to Italy.

This time, we stayed in the Jewish Ghetto, thirty minutes from the tourist hubbub of activity. We paid €100 to sit on the decorated boat. Our gondolier was a young man, hardly the singer you would love to listen to. But we enjoyed our ride.

Taverna Al Remer is a cosy pub restaurant near Rialto Bridge, and it faces the Grand Canal (no views), but it's not easy to find. The food was delicious. We came here twice, and both times ordered the Spritz cocktail, a Venetian creation, it seems.

Our second day was designed to be one to get lost in Venice. As some in our group still didn't get used to the idea, we got lost in separate ways. Sim and I took ages to reach St Mark's Square. We met really nice locals whom we accosted to ask the way. An elderly lady practised her English on us, but it was a pity both sides were in a hurry.

So, what can I offer you about Venice?

a. As all references and guidebooks tell you, get lost. But, you must take time to do so. Never be in a hurry. In the process, speak with locals; many will say they don't speak English, but you meet very nice people.

b. Venice is one place one can ponder over what the whole purpose of travel is about. I sum it simply: to feel a place, not see it; to live it, not pass it; and, not to want to do something, but to collect in your memory bank the snapshot of time that you want to keep of a place forever.

c. Read a. again. No, really, get on the canals, ride the water buses, or taxis, or even the gondolas if you feel extravagant (which in Venice, you must), and get romantic. Watch the sunset, sip wine wine, eat crepe with ice cream.

d. Get to know a little of Venice's history and culture, even if only to find out that Marco Polo hailed from here.

e. Unless you come in summer (for those who love crowds), spend a little shopping money. In off season, shop assistants try very hard to get your business. They can be very nice.

4. Lombardy: Europe's Beautiful Lake and Milan

Lake Como is Italy's third largest lake with an area of 146 sq.km. and over 400m deep.

We rented an apartment in Bellagio, a town across the lake from Varenna, where the trains from Milan discharge holiday makers who then walk five minutes to the ferry terminal for the 15 minute ride across the placid waters.

The only thing to do in Bellagio is to eat, drink and sleep. Unless ...

You rely on taxi service in Bellagio. There're only a few drivers so one needs to reserve the service. Otherwise, you wait...and wait, like we did.

A better way to enjoy Bellagio is, perhaps, to stay by the lake shore and use the ferries. Even better is to hire a car. And, how many days should one stay at Lake Como? Bellagio appears to be a very popular base for visits around the area. For us, two days gave us time to only visit the famous Melzi garden in Bellagio and to shop. To experience Lake Como nicely, I'd love to stay four or five days. There're nice towns to visit using the regular ferries. The Lombardy region has only a few white wines and maybe several more reds. A longer visit will certainly refresh.

There seems to be some good restaurants in Bellagio. I was impatient for dinner time. I reserved six places at Ittiturismo Pescaturismo Mella in San Giovanni. Here we are, at 7pm, admiring the views from San Giovanni, waiting for the restaurant to open its doors. The degustation menu better be good.

Our dinner that evening turned out to be a surprise. We had a whole trout freshly caught in the lake. It was so huge that we couldn't finish it. It was delisioso, as Italians say.

On the penultimate day of our Italian Vacation, we left by the 8.30am ferry and waited almost two hours in Varenna. It's another quaint city, nice to explore in.

Milan was our overnight stop and from here we said goodbye to Italy.